I ride waves for a living. Which means the tides of my life turn on the motion of the sea. Most months, home is a suitcase and a board bag. The rules of this life are simple: embrace risk in motion. Waves are nothing more than organized chaos; and in man vs sea, the sea will win every time. Survival is flowing rather than fighting.
One of the few constants of my travels is a notebook and a pen to record moments of humor, fear, irony, beauty, lessons learned, lessons failed, and whatever else might blow down a windy beach. Or to write poems, stories, essays, plays, aphorisms, letters, and outlines for films.
Experiences are my currency, and this site offers a sampling of my collection-- a kind of abbreviated ship's log of my life.